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Hisense Multi Function II — one outdoor unit, three jobs

Most homes that want air conditioning, a heat pump and hot water end up with two or three separate systems, two or three outdoor units and two or three sets of pipes. This is one box. It cools and heats your rooms, runs your underfloor heating and radiators, and fills a 230 litre cylinder — and in summer it makes that hot water out of the heat it has just taken out of the house.

F-Gas registered engineers • Free design & heat-loss survey • East Midlands, Lincolnshire & Yorkshire

What it replaces

Three systems’ worth of work, one outdoor unit

Air-to-air for the rooms, air-to-water for the wet heating, and domestic hot water — all from the same compressor, the same pipes and the same electrical supply.

Cutaway of a house served by a single Hisense Multi Function II outdoor unit. One set of refrigerant pipes runs from the outdoor unit in the garden to a wall-mounted indoor unit in the bedroom and down to a hydro box and 230 litre cylinder in the plant space. From there, heating flow at 35 degrees feeds underfloor loops in the living room and 55 degree flow feeds radiators in the dining room, while a domestic hot water pipe rises to the bathroom shower.
One outdoor unit, one set of refrigerant pipes, and every heating and hot water job in the house hanging off it.
Four sizes
10–15.5 kW

Nominal cooling from 10.0kW to 15.5kW across four outdoor units, with heating output up to 18kW at maximum. That is a whole house, not a single room — and the sizing comes from a heat loss calculation, not from the brochure.

Rooms

Up to nine indoor units

6 → 9 by outdoor size

Six, eight or nine indoor units depending on which outdoor unit you have, at a connection ratio of 50–150%. Wall, cassette or ducted — whatever suits the room.

Hot water

230 litres, stored

A proper cylinder, not an instantaneous heater — stored to 60°C, or 75°C with the electric heater for a sterilisation cycle. Enough for a family bathroom and an en-suite back to back.

Efficiency

ηs up to 174% at 35°C

A++ seasonal heating efficiency at a 35°C outlet, A+ at 55°C. Air-to-air SCOP runs to 4.85 and SEER to 8.4 — the low flow temperature is where the money is.

Winter

Rated to −25°C

It carries on heating at −25°C ambient, and it will still make hot water down there too. The compressor oil is warmed electromagnetically rather than by a belt heater — 40% less power, and up to temperature 50% faster.

Refrigerant

R32, with a detector

Roughly a third of the global warming potential of R410A, a smaller charge for the same capacity, and a leak-detection and shut-off chain built into the system rather than bolted on.

The bit worth understanding

In summer, the hot water is free

Cooling a house is a heat-moving exercise. The heat comes out of your rooms and, in every conventional system, goes straight into the garden. This one gives it somewhere useful to go.

Two panels compared. On the left a conventional split system cools a room and dumps the heat outside while a separate cylinder is heated by extra electricity. On the right the Multi Function II routes that same heat into the cylinder, making hot water up to 55 degrees with no extra electricity.
Same cooling job, same electricity. The difference is where the heat ends up.
Up to 55°C, recovered

The recovered heat will take a cylinder to 55°C on its own. Above that the immersion tops it up, and the sterilisation cycle takes it to 75°C.

You choose the priority

Cooling first or hot water first — the system can be set either way, so a hot Saturday afternoon behaves differently from a Tuesday morning.

Faster dehumidification too

Because the water side is cooled by refrigerant rather than through a second water heat exchanger, it reaches lower evaporating temperatures — which is what actually pulls moisture out. Humidity is adjustable from 35% to 90%.

A pool, if you have one

The same water side will heat a swimming pool, which is normally a separate heat pump and a separate outdoor unit.

Through the year

What it is doing in July, in October and in January

The reason to buy one system rather than three is that the seasons do not line up neatly. Something is always needed, and it is rarely everything at once.

Three panels showing summer, spring and autumn, and winter. In summer the system cools every room and makes hot water from the heat removed. In spring and autumn it prioritises hot water and takes the chill off rooms. In winter it runs underfloor heating and radiators and still makes hot water, rated down to minus 25 degrees.
Cooling, heating and hot water can be prioritised in software. You decide what the house does first.
The wet side

Underfloor at 35°C and radiators at 55°C, together

Almost every real house is a mixture: underfloor in the extension, radiators everywhere else. Run them both off one temperature and one of them is always wrong.

A hydro box feeding a mixing valve kit which splits the heating into two circuits, each with its own pump and temperature sensor. One circuit runs radiators at 55 degrees, the other runs underfloor loops at 35 degrees.
The mixing valve kit gives each circuit its own flow temperature, its own pump and its own sensor.
Water out from 15°C to 60°C

Space heating flow is adjustable across the whole band, so the system can be tuned to the emitters you actually have rather than the ones the brochure assumed.

Efficiency lives at the bottom

ηs of 165–174% at a 35°C outlet against 112–120% at 55°C. Every degree you can take off the flow temperature is money.

We check the emitters first

A room-by-room heat loss tells us whether your radiators work at 45°C or 55°C. If several need upsizing, that goes in the quote — not in a surprise after you have signed.

Quiet indoors

Sound pressure of 26–29 dB(A) at the hydro box and cylinder unit. It can live in a utility room without dominating it.

Siting

The outdoor unit does not have to be anywhere near the house

Long pipe runs are the difference between an outdoor unit on the patio and an outdoor unit you never see or hear.

A schematic of the pipework design limits: 30 metres from the outdoor unit to the first branch, 40 metres from the first branch to an indoor unit or the water module, 70 metres from the outdoor unit to the furthest indoor unit, up to 200 metres of pipe in total, up to nine indoor units, a connection ratio of 50 to 150 per cent, and a height difference of 50 metres above or 40 metres below.
Design maxima, not targets — but they are generous enough that siting is rarely the constraint.
One fan, not two

A single-fan outdoor unit at 845 × 1100 × 426mm and 83–96.5kg. It goes up in a lift and through a normal doorway, which matters more than it sounds on a flat or a town house.

An air outlet guide, if it is tight

Where discharge air would hit a wall or a fence, an optional guide redirects it up, left or right so the unit still breathes properly in a narrow side return.

51–54 dB(A) outside

Sound pressure at the outdoor unit. Siting, mounting and the distance to your neighbour’s window all get considered at survey — not after.

Single phase

220–240V single phase across the whole range, so most homes need no supply upgrade. We check the incomer and the consumer unit at survey.

R32

A mildly flammable refrigerant, treated like one

R32 is where the industry has gone, for good reasons. It is also flammable at concentration, and the honest way to sell it is to explain what happens if it ever leaks.

The four-stage refrigerant safety chain: a detector samples the air continuously; at 5,000 parts per million the indoor unit stops and raises an audible and visual alarm; a shut-off box closes the valves, including on a power cut; and the system recovers the refrigerant back into the outdoor unit. Alongside, a comparison of global warming potential, R410A at 2,088 against R32 at 675, and a note on EU F-Gas Regulation 2024/573.
Detection, alarm, isolation, recovery — four stages, all of them automatic.
Why this matters more on a system like this one

A conventional split system has refrigerant in one or two rooms. A whole-house system has it in more of them, and a longer pipe run to leak from. That is precisely why the detector, the shut-off box and the recovery sequence are part of the product rather than an accessory — and why the installation has to be done by F-Gas registered engineers who pressure-test and document it properly. We weigh the charge to the actual pipe run rather than estimating it.

Day to day

A knob, a screen and a light you can read from the doorway

Whole-house systems fail in the living room, not on the test bench. If the controls are baffling, the system gets left on one setting and half the efficiency goes with it.

The built-in colour wired controller with its knob and screen showing hot water and heating flow temperatures, a key to the light strip colours (yellow for heating, orange for hot water, red for a fault), and the Hi-Mit II phone app alongside voice control through Alexa and Google Assistant.
The colour of the light strip tells you the mode before you have read a single word on the screen.
The range

Four outdoor sizes, two ways to do the hot water

Headline numbers below. The one you need comes out of a heat loss calculation and a hot water demand, not from a price list.

10.0kWAFW-34 • up to 6 indoor units
12.1kWAFW-41 • up to 6 indoor units
14.0kWAFW-48 • up to 8 indoor units
15.5kWAFW-54 • up to 9 indoor units
Integrated cylinder unit

Hydro box and a 230 litre cylinder in one floor-standing tower, 1885 × 595 × 625mm. The usual choice where there is a utility room or a garage.

Wall-hung hydro box

890 × 520 × 320mm and 50kg, for houses that already have a cylinder worth keeping or need the tank somewhere else.

Hot water performance

Domestic hot water SCOP of 2.95 on average, 3.50 in warmer conditions and 2.40 in colder ones, for a tank held at 50°C or above.

Operating envelope

Cooling −10°C to 52°C, heating down to −25°C, hot water −25°C to 43°C, heat recovery 12°C to 43°C.

Where it fits, and where it does not

This suits a house that wants cooling and is replacing or upgrading its heating — a renovation, an extension, a new build, or a home coming off oil or LPG. If you only want air conditioning in two bedrooms, a multi-split is cheaper and simpler and we will tell you so. If your radiators are sized for an 80°C boiler and you are not changing them, the sums do not work, and we would rather establish that at survey than after the scaffolding is up.

Why have ArcticNord fit it?

A system that does three jobs has three ways to be designed badly. Most of what decides whether you get the efficiency on the label happens before anyone picks up a spanner.

Heat loss, room by room

We calculate the loss for every room and the hot water demand for the household, then size from that. Oversizing a system like this is expensive twice — once to buy and again every day it runs.

Emitters checked honestly

We measure your radiators and tell you which ones work at a heat pump flow temperature. Where they need changing it is in the quote, in writing, before you commit.

F-Gas registered, charge weighed

Refrigerant work is legally controlled. Our engineers are F-Gas registered, the charge is weighed to the pipe run rather than guessed, and the commissioning is documented — which is also what keeps the manufacturer warranty alive.

One company, all three jobs

We do air conditioning, heat pumps and hot water. Nobody gets to blame the other trade when the cooling is fine but the cylinder never recovers.

F-Gas Register accredited
F-Gas registered engineers Every installation is carried out and commissioned by F-Gas registered engineers, with the full commissioning record handed over on completion.

Common questions

What is a Multi Function II system?+

It is one outdoor unit that does three jobs that would normally need three separate systems: air conditioning through wall or ceiling indoor units, wet heating through underfloor loops or radiators, and domestic hot water in a 230 litre cylinder. Everything runs off one set of refrigerant pipes and one electrical supply.

Can it really run air conditioning and radiators at the same time?+

Yes. The outdoor unit serves refrigerant indoor units and a water side at once, and you can tell it which to prioritise when the house asks for two things together. In practice the sequencing is set at commissioning and you never think about it again.

Does it replace my boiler?+

In a lot of houses, yes — but only if the radiators or underfloor loops can deliver the heat at the flow temperature the system runs at. It will put out water up to 60°C, but the efficiency is far better at 35°C to 45°C. We do a room-by-room heat loss first and tell you honestly which emitters would need changing. If the answer is most of them, we will say so.

How does it make hot water for nothing in summer?+

When it is cooling, the heat it takes out of your rooms has to go somewhere. A conventional system throws it into the garden. This one can route it into the hot water cylinder instead, up to 55°C, without drawing any extra electricity to do it. You are heating water with heat you have already paid to move.

How cold can it get before it stops heating?+

It is rated to keep heating down to −25°C outside, which is well below anything the East Midlands sees. Output does fall as it gets colder, which is exactly why the heat loss calculation matters more than the headline kilowatt figure.

How many rooms can it do?+

Between six and nine indoor units depending on which of the four outdoor sizes you have, at a connection ratio of 50 to 150 per cent. Pipework can run up to 70 metres from the outdoor unit to the furthest indoor unit, so the unit does not have to sit next to the house.

Does it qualify for the Boiler Upgrade Scheme?+

Air conditioning — the air-to-air side — has never been eligible. Grant eligibility for the water side depends on the specific model being MCS certified at the time you install it, so we check the current listing before we quote rather than promise you a grant that may not apply. We would rather lose the job than get that wrong.

Do you cover my area?+

We install across Nottinghamshire, Derbyshire, Lincolnshire, Leicestershire, South and West Yorkshire. If you are near the edge of that, call and ask — we will tell you straight.

Only after cooling? The Daikin Stylish and the Midea Breezeless E are the wall units we fit most, and the full Bosch range runs from a bedroom to a commercial cassette. Only after heating? That is ArcticNord Heat.

Find out whether it suits your house

The AC Selector prices room-by-room air conditioning, so it cannot cost a whole-home system. Send us the details or call instead, and we will talk through what you have now, what you are changing, and whether one outdoor unit really is the right answer for it.